The Rest of June

Since our trip to Edinburgh the rest of June has been spent doing things we have done before. This was our 23rd trip to Le Mans and the 15th year we have been to Treboul including the 7 when we had a house there.

We got home from Scotland on the Sunday night after the Rolling Stone concert – 450 miles and 10 hours of hot boring motorway. It took a couple of days to clean the van inside and out, do all of our washing and the prep and pack for heading to France.

quvIcG2aTX2keyuJGo6aDAThe 08:30 ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe was packed with petrol heads in all manner of cars and campers en route to Le Mans. The 200 mile drive down through Rouen was pleasant and uneventful save for the fact we could see the effects of the previous few days deluges – burst rivers, flooded fields and washed away soils. We were slightly nervous that the camping fields would be more than a little wet. Once we got to the outskirts of Le Mans city the public roads that become the race track were closed for the evenings qualifying sessions and the signage for our camping area had us driving all over the place. We found it eventually and made a bee line for a piece of ground that was higher than the rest around it – just as well when we saw others, including the location organisers, have need of a tractor to get pulled out of boggy ground.

Looking after Fred in a less than doggy friendly environment was a priority but in reality he was fine and his usual over enthusiastic self. We walked him into the pit village on Thursday and Friday and to watch a few minutes of night qualifying at the nearby Porsche curves on Thursday evening. All of which he coped with well apart from objecting to having his Halti around his face to keep him in check. The noise of the racing cars did not bother him one bit, the loud music and and loud voices into the small hours didn’t bother him either but he did not like the fireworks that some campers need to make their weekend complete.

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There must be crisp left

We found a convenient quieter spot to watch the start of the race from on the roof of the go kart pits just before the main start area. From there we could see all the cars come past together behind the pace car just before they are let loose and then watch a few laps as the race got under way. Perhaps I should explain here that there is no need to watch the whole race, we get pleasure from watching small snippets but we listen to Radio Le Mans for much of the 24 hours for race reports and news. Indeed it would be impossible to work out what was happening without RLM. So for the next 24 hours we had a constant din of racing engines with only let up being when the safety cars came which has the effect of slowing the cars and grouping them together which creates gaps in the extremes of noise. None of which bothers us, or Fred, and we all got a good night’s sleep. There were threats of rain on the Sunday which didn’t materialise – sad to say if it had then it might have livened up a slightly predicable race at the head of the field. We watched the end of the race again from the go kart pits and as often happens the the race is a forgone conclusion on the last lap and the cars form up in parade. The outright win predictably went to Toyota and the car with Fernando Alonso in its driver line up. It was theirs to loose and something they have spent some 40 years trying to achieve so well done them. In the lower classes it was a battle to the finish with at least one win or position being decided on the last lap – quite something after 24 hours.

We let the masses leave on Sunday evening before our morning drive west to our regular haunt at Treboul. In the couple of times we have been back there since we sold our house we have taken a shine to Camping Trezulien. It is a pleasant and spacious site on a hillside on the edge of the town and just a short walk to the port de plaisance, shops, supermarket, bars and restaurants or over the barrage into the main town of Douarnenz.

In view of our impending trip to Norway we had decided that this week was going to be a lot of R&R and to be honest it was too hot for us to do much else. We celebrated Sue’s birthday a couple of times at our favourite restaurant, La Griella overlooking the port and Isle Tristan. On the Friday evening we had an interesting chat with a couple of Dutch guys who were taking part in the Mini Fastnet the next week. This is an annual race for Mini 6.50 class sailing boats, 70+ of them predominantly French with a few other nationalities, that set out on Sunday evening to sail around the Scillies to the Fastnet Rock and back. This year it took the winners 3 days and 14 hours.

We did venture out to Camaret sur Mar for the day, somewhere we haven’t been for 20 years. Camaret is a place for artists so the streets and alleyways by the quayside are full of galleries selling their work. We found a space on the quayside and managed a pleasant bread and cheese picnic lunch with a view. Followed by a trip up to Menez Hom for a spectacular view of the bay right out to the Point du Raz.

On the way back to Treboul we spotted something we haven’t seen before – a baguette vending machine!

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The weekend was spent either soaking up or hiding from the sun before we had to head home. A swift pack up on Monday morning and round to the vet with Fred to get his passport worm and while he is a favourite there he still doesn’t like vets! It seemed to take a long time to go not very far stopping at the Aire north of Avranche for lunch before we got to our destination for the night – Arromanch. We have been to the “beaches” before but there is always something about them. What struck me this time was the way that the events of June 1944 have created a tourist resort of the area. On one hand it seems a little incongruous but on the other you realise that people want to visit and the locals have to make a living.

After a very pleasant Moules et Frits for dinner the following morning we drove along the coast to Pegasus Bridge and from there along the coast to Honfleur. Having not tried an Aire before we were determined use the one by the town centre in Honfleur. The major drawback we discovered was that the toilets listed in our guide did not exists – something that is a bit restricting in a camper van, but what heck we managed. The town was heaving by day but when we went in for dinner it had died and to our surprised quite a number of restaurants had shut for the evening. Never mind we found one to sit out on the quayside for a Crepe dinner and very nice it was too. Back at the van that was parked next to a stretch of water we watched a fabulous sunset, a family off otters playing on the opposite bank, an owl hunting over the reads and bats in and out of trees by the van.

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A nice way to end our holiday before a trip to the Supermarket in Dieppe and stock up for Norway and then the ferry home.

Edinburgh and the Rolling Stones

My favourite city, possibly because it’s where I come from, and the greatest rock and roll band in the world. An irresistible combination!

The decision was taken some weeks ago to forego the NC500 this year, after all we are going to the Nordkap in August and one cool holiday a year is more than enough. Oh and Jensen Button is finally racing at Le Mans against Fernando Alonso and we are not going to miss that. Still we had planned to visit relatives and we had tickets for Rolling Stones at Murrayfield and we weren’t going to miss that either.

img_1916So we set off on a grey and misty Monday morning heading round London and towards the the A1 – the Great North Road. We made an overnight stop at the convenient CCC site in Boroughbridge home to many bunnies much to Fred’s excitement. The following morning the weather cleared to give great views of all landmarks we passed, the Angel of the North, Bamburgh Castle, Lindisfarne and the Firth of Forth as the road rides along the cliff tops north of Berwick upon Tweed.

Fred at LinwaterWe had found Linwater Caravan Park just a few miles west of Edinburgh. It got great reviews and looked like it would suit us well and certainly better that the overpriced Caravan Club site at Silverknowes and we were not disappointed. A family owned and run site, well tended with spacious pitches, decent facilities and excellent service and support.

The site backs on to the Almond River valley and Almondell Country Park. There are several walks in and around the area and alongside a fast flowing channel that feeds the Forth Clyde Canal at Lins Viaduct. It was here that Fred decided the stream was perfect for drinking and cooling off in and once he had we couldn’t stop him diving in for a swim each time.

We whiled away one pleasant lunch time and afternoon at the site with cousin Ellen and Ian and another visiting the Kelpies with cousin Margaret. The Kelpies are a pair of enormous horses head statues standing beside the Union canal at Falkirk. They are amazing facsimiles of the horses that used pull the narrow boats and are the centre piece of the Helix Park regeneration project.

Just before we came away our solar panel packed up. The guy who supplied it sent me a new one to fit while we were on site and true to form the carrier, Parcel Force, mucked us about. Anyway it got there eventually and with the loan one evening of some steps from the site we got solar again and with a vengeance.

Saturday started with a shock for poor Fred. We couldn’t take him into the Rolling Stones concert and we wanted to have lunch in town beforehand. So he was booked into a local kennels and he wasn’t happy about being left there however nice the people were. A cab ride to the stadium and a tram ride into town and we mooched around the shops before lunch and after walked up the Royal Mile and sat in the sun and people watched in Princes Street Gardens. Lunch was our usual Edinburgh treat at Henderson’s in Hanover Street. It is a great self service vegetarian restaurant with an extensive and constantly varying menu.

And then there was the Rolling Stones. It turned out that our not too expensive tickets were actually quite good up in the stands with a good view down on to the stage. We have seen them before but this was probably the best yet. The play list was very similar to Hyde Park in 2015 and full of classic Rolling Stones numbers. It is said time and again but for a bunch of “old boys” the energy was incredible – but also vocal quality and fret / keyboard dexterity! Perhaps we can look forward to? Mick had a few Scottish jokes with the crowd and about the guys with mops and towels drying the runway. He introduced Ron as “we stole him from the Bay City Rollers” and Charlie as Bonnie Prince Smilie. Charlie then did cheesy grin through Sympathy For The Devil. The graphic visuals were brilliant and the fresh arrangements gave everything a very upbeat feel. The crowd were amazing too and the band looked like they were enjoying the show just as much.

We went to bed and woke again on Sunday with our ears literally numb from the sheer power of the sound. We were packed quickly and off to rescue Fred who was so pleased to see us that he could hardly stand for wagging his tail and bum. I am not sure that he was so impressed with the 470 mile 10 hour journey on a scorching hot day. But there you go – can’t have it all ways.

2018 Here We Come

What to do on a wet New Year? Book next years hols of course!

We have been looking forward to going back to Norway and this time we are going all the way to the top in August.Norway Map It is 2500km from Kristiansand to Nordkapp which is 5000km round trip, or 3000 miles. Add to that the 1300km from Calais to Hirtshals (the Tunnel to the ferry from Denmark) is a total of 7600km, or 4500 miles, without any detours and there will be plenty of those. We are allowing 5 weeks so a few days to get to Kristiansand and a few days back, hopefully via Holland where we can visit friends and and take Fred to the vet for his passport worming pill.

The Tunnel and Ferry together cost about £500. There are no great deals to be had on the Tunnel as our C&CC membership only works on silly o’clock trips and you we can’t use Tesco vouchers and include Fred who by the way Eurotunnel charge another £18 each way for! However the tunnel is better than the ferry simply because of the frequency that fits in better with our timing. It would have been good to have a flexible return but they want virtually double so we will just pay the penalty if we need to change. Another gripe with Eurotunnel is that they charge another £20 each way for our van. because it is a Motorcaravan – I tried to select van but when I put the registration in it objected.  Conversely Highways England refuse to let us cross Dartford as a Motorcaravan and charge us extra as a van!

Conversely Colorline Ferries from Hirtshals to Kristiansand is easy and user friendly. They are also quite a bit cheaper than Eurotunnel. There we can book on as a Small Car under 2m high and 5m long. Unladen we actually go 2020mm over the solar panel so with us, our travel kit, clothes and 4 weeks of food that we can’t afford to buy or can’t get in Norway I am sure we will find that 20mm.

This time we will allow and extra day to get from Calais to Hirtshals where we will top over the night before the ferry. We plan to go inland from Kristiansand to Trondheim but major route planning is easy especially north of Trondheim – there is only the E6! On the way back south we will do the coast again from Trondheim.

NC500 MapSo what else? Well continuing the Go North theme we are planning to do the North Coast 500. It is a few years since we visited my relatives in Edinburgh and 25 years since we last went further north. As it will be outside school holiday time I don’t think we will book anything so we can be free to go with the flow. Time and weather permitting we would like to do some of the islands and at least Skye and perhaps Orkney. There are a couple of sites close enough to Edinburgh where we can get into town easily and, if the weather is kind, host a picnic for my cousins.

Bay of Biscay : 3150 miles

Here is a flavour of how far we travelled, some 3150 miles Dieppe and back to Dieppe. Starting by travelling south down through France across the Loire, Limosin and Dordogne to the Pyrenees and across into Spain. From there we followed roughly the Camino de Santiago to the North West tip at Cabo Finisterre. After that it was easy – just follow the coast all the way to the tip of Brittany. And finally a quick run back the length of Brittany, and Normandy to Dieppe.


Apart from a few markers most of those on the map are the camp sites we stopped at en route. Below is a list with a few notes and our ratings;
Bay of Biscay Camp Sites

Bay of Biscay : Finisterre

As we left Morbihan and headed west toward Finisterre damp and chilly weather was forecast for the next week and at this time of year campsites are becoming scarce as they close for the winter. We decided to to head for our one last stop on our trip around the bay and to indulge ourselves with the luxury of a cabin for a few nights. Treboul – Douarnenez is 20km past Quimper on the south west corner of the Bai de Douarnenez. Douarnenez is famous historically for the sardine fishing industry and incidentally it is from here that the French Resistance sailed to and from Great Britain in WWII. On 18th June 1940 men from Douarnenez were among the first to sail to Great Britain to join General De Gaul become the Free French army.

I should explain that for several years we had a house in Treboul so the town is like our home in Brittany. We know it and the surrounding areas very well so even though we had not been here for a few years once we were on the road to Quimper it was all very familiar. We pitched up on a nice site which us just 500 metres from the Port du Plaisance of Treboul so an easy walk to the local shops and restaurants and of course our favourite Leclerc supper market. I had to smile while we were shopping in Leclerc when I bumped into my freind Olivier Youinou and promised to see him for coffee in a few days.

We spent Friday pottering around starting with a trip into the beautiful city of Quimper. It has a very classy, for which also read expensive, shopping district an a fabulous cathedral which for once did not have any hoardings or scaffold around it. It was a bright morning but very chilly so eventually after a cup of coffee in the sun we headed to the stores on the edge of town. My first stop was to Brico Depot, the absolute dogs whatsits when it comes to DIY and where we spent a lot of money when we were renovating our house, to find a tap fitting that I can’t get at home that I need to do a mod to the sink tap in the van. Next up we went into the huge Leclerc Hypermarket to look for a couple of warm pullovers – yes it was getting that cold.

And then to Saturday and the final part of our trip around the Bay of Biscay which took close to 1500 miles and 4 weeks. This end of Brittany was called Finis Terre by the Romans, Latin for End of the World, just like they named Cabo Finisterre in Spain and hence the Departement du Finisterre ( 29 ) in France. It is about 20km from Treboul to the absolute tip, the Point du Raz, that sts amongs an area designated as a national park. The point itself is a huge heather and gorse covered area sitting atop rocky cliffs looking out ove the Athlantic Ocean toward North America. On top of the point is a large coastal look out station and on the various rocks below are a number of lighthouses. Situated a 8km offshore is the low rocky island of the Ile de Sein just 1800m x 500m it is entirely one village.

 

The sea around the the Point du Raz is often a frothy mess where the currents swirl around the point and giant waves crash over the lighthouses. Even on nice days it is rarely quiet. On the headland and from the cliffs you watch all manor of bird life that changes over the year with the seasons. Often you can see dolphins swimming below presumably compete Inn with the fishermen for what sardines remain in these waters today. This weekend however the weather was flat calm so much so that you would have been safe swimming in the clear blue water around the point. The tide was along way out so that all the rocks were well exposed. The air was so clear that for the first time we can remember we could make out big ships on the horizon and see Brest clearly to the north.

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So here we accomplished what we set out to do, drive around the Bay of Biscay, it just took a bit longer than driving around Normans Bay at home.

Bay of Biscay : Carnac Megaliths

Getting close to our end point we stopped near Carnac to walk amongst the megalithic alignments and sites that always impress.

A morning of cold grey drizzle on the motorway north through Nantes behind us we arrived in Locmariaquer to the west of the Golfe Du Morbihan in clearing weather. Planning ahead had become more difficult now because so many sites were shutting up for the winter and those that were open had limited facilities and often decidedly worn pitches. We still managed to find a comfortable spot for a few days from which to explore the Neolithic sites.

The coast and beaches around Morbihan are nice but more often suited to Oyster farming. Locmariaquer is on the western spit where the entrance to the gulf is reduced to just a couple of hundred metres. The effect of this on the tide is dramatic and it surges in and out of the gulf. The village itself is almost the ususal small Bretagne seaside village except for its important Megalith and Cairn.

Carnac Allignments

We have visited the Carnac Alignments several times before but never when it was possible to walk among the stones. These neolithic alignments are in several ranges spread over a few kilometres. The stones were first raised Between 4000BC and 5000BC. Today there are approximately 1200 of the possible 3000 that were originally erected but have since been robbed out or vandalised. Even some of the present stones have been replaced or raised from a recumbent position as it is only in the last 150 years that the government has managed to take control of them. There really is nothing that can compare to these ancient symbols. Stonehenge is spectacular for the size of its stones and the distance they came from and there are many other interesting prehistoric sites. However when you gaze upon the shear scale of what was done at Carnac by plain old brute force and for what who knows?

We walked among the Menac and Kemario alignments before delving up a muddy track through the forest to take a look at a part we had not seen before. The Geant du Manio and Qudrilatere du Menhir. The Geant is is a huge lone menhir that stands 6.5 metres high.

We meandered back to Locmariaquer around the coast and stopped for lunch with a gorgeaous view over the water to La Trinité and across to Quiberon before strolling around the marina at La Trinité to admire the enormous ocean racing trimarans that are seemingly sculpted fro carbon fibre.

img_1420That evening Sue very bravely embarked upon pizza but this time with somehwat unknown bread flour from Intermarche. Good though they were we can’t recommend that flour although the variation in temperature may not have helped in proving the dough.

The following day we took a look at the tide surge at the mouth of the gulf and then around the beach. Fred really is quite amusing sometimes, we walked quite a way along the beach but would not let him go in the water because it was a bit weedy and scummy and to be frank he already smells enough when he gets wet, however once we got a clear bit he was straight in just for a few minutes and was happy as if he had just scratched that itch.

That afternoon we paid a visit to the local neolithic site including the Menhir de Brise that would have stood 20 metres high when it was erected along with a line of smaller stones around 4700BC. This giant stone weighing in at 330 tonnes is of a type of rock that occurs at least 10km away and would have been dragged to this site. The menhir fell and broke, probably due to earth tremors, around 4000BC and smaller stones are long got robbed for other structures on this site and elsewhere. Also on the site are 2 seperate grave monuments. The first is the Table des Marchands a dolmen that has been partly reconstructed. It was originally constructed with pieces of stone with decorative carvings that show they came from the adjacent broken and missing menhirs. Then there is the Er-Grah tumulus that started life as a cairn before 4000BC and was extended to a 140 metre long tumulus that was completed around 3300BC. Here the remains of the grave goods here were found to contain axe heads and precious stones of a rock found in Northern Spain. Obviously the grave of an important person.

Our 2 day cultural trip to visit the stones left us in awe yet again of what these people achieved so long ago. Something to ponder as we headed further west to our “home” in Finistere.

Bay of Biscay : Vendee

As we left Gujan-Mestras the first and most important thing was a visit to the local Leclerc to stock up for a few days. We have learned that decamping, walking Fred and then visiting a supermarket takes the best part of a morning. Making sure we avoided motorways we headed north up the western side of the Medoc region. Years ago we did the eastern side from Bordeaux to the northern tip that takes you through the vineyards but just a few kilometres west and we were traveling through forests and agriculture. Surprisingly we passed a whole area of giant circular fields, circular because of the computer controlled irrigation rigs that swivel around a central point. We presumed that some of these were on their second crop of the year, something that was confirmed when we came across Rape flowering at the end of September. There were also freshly ploughed fields several of which looked like they were planted with potatoes or carrots. Somewhere during the day we also came across a huge glass house complex that was there to grow tomatoes. The road passed through some attractive towns and villages, some influenced by tourism at the coast just a short distance away. These places always look nice when the sun is shining and there are few tourists.

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We made it time for the mid afternoon ferry across the mouth of the Gironde to Royan. Quite important because the next one would we have run us into the evening.  We drove through Royan and its environs to Saint Palais sur Met all of which are stacked with classy resort properties. We found a compfortable campsite whose population included a number of British campers who seemed to have formed a community, definitely something to avoid. The following day we skirted the popular resorts of La Rochelle and the Isle de Re and headed for Les Sables d’Olonne, a resort with a classy seafront and famous in sailing for the Vendée Globe race.

Last time we visited the town was on a on a wet day in June. The only difference this time was that it was September and we stayed two nights so we could have a look around. The only camp site that as open was in in the dunes on the edge of town. It was a large holiday park with a handful of touring places and nice facilities. The beach was what by now was the usual miles of sand and surf backed by dunes and forest that made for nice walks. We spent Sunday morning walking the promenades and had our picnic lunch overlooking the marina and where the Vendée Globe establishment sets up every 4 years.

The 1st of October was here and we had been on the road for just over 4 weeks. You will have gathered by now that the weather was starting to cool down and worse still was turning autumnal. It was very grey and drizzly when we headed north from Les Sables d’Olonne so we decided to head for Morbihan, the start of Brittany.