Bay of Biscay : Laredo and Basque Country

Laredo, and not the Texas Rangers TV variety but a tourist resort between Santander and Bilboa, is strange town. It is on a long sand spit with an ocean beach to the east and an estuary beach to the west. It looks like it was laid out in a grid pattern in the ’60s  and consists largely of high rise apartment blocks with a few new and more exclusive low rise developments. It is strange because for all the thousands of properties the town was almost deserted in mid September and there is no centre like a high street.

After the Picos de Europa we were looking for somwhere dry with a sunny forecast and good facilities for a few days domestic stopover. Playa de Regaton campsite got terrific review in ACSI especially for its facilities so that is where we headed and in that respect we weren’t disappointed. Even though we thought a couple of previous sites were good, and they were, this site has to have the best facilities end of. There were also several lime trees with wonderful fruit conveniently placed by the door. One reviewer commented that dog owners are relegated to a small corner and yes we were but there is nothing wrong with it and it has the best view out over the water. The beach nearby however is less than the best and at the time had a lot of unpleasant waste along the high water line.

The site is on the west side of the sand spit overlooking a huge tidal estuary / bay  that only accesses the sea by a narrow channel at the tip of the spit. The beach is vey shallow so the tide exposes a huge area of sand that turns to mud flat and marsh at the southern end. The whole is just part of a large Nature Reseve and hosts many species of wading birds in particular so as the tide rises and pushes them up the beach you get to see Wimbrel, Ringed Plover, Sanderling, Green Shank, Egrets, Terns and many more I am sure.

We had already planned to stay here for a few days and do laundry. Our first day was damp but the following couple of days were dry and sunny so we made the most of the opportunity. One benefit of our pitch and the weather was the spectacular sunsets we could watch after dinner. Indeed most of the campsite and a lot of locals came to enjoy them too.

We set off after a last visit to the local branch of our favourite supmarket chain, Mercadaro. Spanish supermarkets seem to suffer from limited choice but at least this chain offered quality. One of the best surprises shopping in Spain was just how cheap local wines were so of course we stocked up to last a couple of weeks. We also paid a visit to the car wash and gave the van a treat, not only is it more pleasant travelling in a clean van but it also saves us getting dirty if we rub against it when we are parked up.

After yet more scenic Spanish motorway we skirted round, through, across Bilbao and its environs, most of it looked like yet another grubby industrial city, and back toward the scenic Basque hills and coast line. The domestic architecture of the region is a pleasant mix of Alpine and Spanish. From where we sat too the region appears a little more affluent than some other parapets of the north coast but maybe that was just the Bilbao influence. That night we made the mistake of taking the ACSI guide for granted and what had been reviewed by others as a nice site turned out to be a bit of a dump. Suffice to say it is the first night we have decided against showering on the expectation of coming out dirtier than when we went in. I see subsequently that the site has been dropped from the guide.

We left the following morning heading to the French border along a spectacular coast road with lots of small holiday or retirement towns as far as Zarautz after which it became less attractive. One thing that has surprised us all the way along the north coast is how industry suddenly appears in picturesque seemingly out of the way places. When we reached Donestela – San Sebastián we had fully intended a look at the town but yet again confusing Spanish road layouts and awful signage defeated us and we hopped on to the peage to France.

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